Sailing Around the World the Wrong Way: Volume IV

We made good time across the strait and the waves moderated a little in the lee of Ikarias          Island, which has a tall 5000-foot mountain range running east and west.  But when we rounded a cape part way down the coast, all hell broke loose.  A meltemi had hit on the other side of the mountains and the wind bounced up and accelerated down the south side where we were.  The wind jumped up to over 50 mph.  The waves had not had time to build up yet and the existing 6-8 foot waves were blown almost flat by the wind.  We were forced to lower the only sail we had up, the genoa jib that we had been using all day.  It was almost impossible to see anything with all of the wind-blown salt spray and whitecaps breaking over the boat.  The waves started rushing right over the boat and through the cockpit.  The seawater almost overwhelmed the two large cockpit drains.  All the while, the sky was clear and the sun was shining brightly without a cloud in sight. 

            The dinghy, tied down on the foredeck, began to tear loose and add more wind resistance to our forward progress.  I managed to secure it more or less to the deck by working through the fore hatch.  Although this let a tremendous amount of seawater into the cabin, I didn’t dare attempt to go on the foredeck.  I would have been washed off immediately.  The ventilation hatch over the main cabin came loose and let in more water. 

            With the diesel engine running wide open, we were only able to make 2 mph quartering into the wind.  We had eight miles to go to port and we only had two hours of daylight left, due to our late start.  There aren’t any navigation lights in the Aegean, so we were in real trouble.  We had to do something!  Byler put out just a small scrap of the jib (about 30 sq. ft.) and our speed jumped up to 7.2 mph!!  Byler, clad in only a T-shirt and shorts, was constantly being soaked by the cold sea and became completely exhausted, blinded by the salt spray, and shaking cold after only an hour at the helm in the storm. 

            I donned warm clothes and my foul weather gear and took over the helm.  Immediately the wind-blown water was driving up my sleeves and pants legs, down my neck, under my goggles, and under my hood tied tightly around my face.  A few small leaks developed in the boat, but none serious.  Being blown overboard by the wind and waves was our main danger.  We were hanging on with all of our strength.  For what seemed an eternity, we struggled against the elements and fought for our survival.  We slowly crept toward the port and safety.     

            We managed to hold this scrap of sail for almost an hour and a half.  Finally, the boat got completely out of hand and was mostly just lying on its side being pounded by the waves.  In attempting to take the sail in, we were not able to hold the lines and it blew all to pieces!  I’m convinced that Ikarus didn’t lose his wings from the hot sun, but had them blown off by a meltemi. 

            Fortunately, we were now within sight of the harbor a couple of miles away.  We managed to make it into the harbor not long after dark and tied up to the large concrete ferry pier, as the inner harbor appeared to be full.  It was a blessed relief to be in port and we were exhausted.  The large ferry came in, four hours late, and left.  A band of Gypsies was having a party on the pier but we were too exhausted to watch.  It was late so we substituted a stiff nightcap for supper and collapsed in the bunks.  The boat was pounding so hard in the waves against the pier that I finally took a blanket up on the concrete pier and slept there with the Gypsies.  Poor Harold Byler was so exhausted that he slept through the night without a care.